Open a Whole New World

Peg stamps take your crafting to a whole new level

Component Stamping on Paper

Years ago, Rubber Stamp Tapestry coined the term component stamping to describe the process of combining small stamped images into larger, elaborate works of art – one peg stamp at a time.

Component stamping is easy and the results are stunning! The simplicity of component peg stamping makes it a breeze to create intricate borders, wreaths & layered art. Our stamps can be used for component stamping on paper, fabric, polymer clay, bisque, glass, & more.

At Rubber Stamp Tapestry, we love to see all the wonderful techniques our customers are using to create beautiful cards and designs. Below are some of the “best practice” tips we have compiled over the years. With these simple instructions, you will quickly be on your way to stamping your own one-of-a-kind crafting project.

CUSHION YOUR WORK

Put a pad of paper, a magazine, or a mouse pad underneath your stamping project. This creates a cushioned base and makes for better impressions.

APPLY INK

Lightly tap the stamp as you rotate it onto the ink pad. Apply ink only to the flat surface of the image and not deep within all the crevices. Too much ink will prevent your artwork from having crisp edges.

TEST BEFORE STAMPING

It is a good idea to test your stamp and your ink on a scrap piece of paper before stamping on your project.

VARY THE PRESSURE

If there is a circle or edge around your stamped image you are applying too much pressure when you stamp. Fine line drawings need only a gentle tap to keep the image clear and detailed. A solid stamp image, especially a large one (like a Jumbo stamp) will require more pressure.

"USE 2nd GENERATION STAMPING

Stamp two or three times before re-inking to introduce depth and dimension and wonderful shades and tones of the same ink color.

ROTATE YOUR STAMP OFTEN

For a more natural look, rotate the stamp slightly in between impressions.

Component Stamping a Wreath on Paper

Choose the predominant (larger) image from your stamp set and start off by stamping the north, south, east and west points of your card. These marks will now become your guidelines for creating the circle for your wreath. You can continue filling in with the remaining stamps, or go back and stamp again with the first one in a different, or lighter (stamping off) color. Now, just fill in between with the remaining images, focusing on eliminating negative space and creating balance around the wreath. This technique is quick and easy and with the even number of impressions creates a symmetrical wreath.

To add variation or to create a more asymmetrical wreath, imagine your stamping surface is a clock. Start by stamping the predominant image at hour marks 1 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 5 o’clock, 8 o’clock, and 10 o’clock. Then, as before, fill in between with the remaining images. This technique takes a bit more practice and by using an odd number of impressions, it will create a more natural looking wreath.

Component Stamping a Border on Paper

To create a border, you can use a template, chalk, masking tape, or a fine pencil line to direct your path. Stamp the largest images first, leaving space in between for the remaining images and fill in as needed.

Component Stamping on Clay Bisque

With our component stamping process, it’s easy to create beautiful and functional items that will be cherished by generations to come. Did you know that custom dinnerware, mugs, vases, and other ceramics can be decorated with rubber stamps? There’s a vast world of possibilities just waiting for you when you peg stamp on ceramic bisque!

1. Choose Your Location

If you don’t have your own kiln, take our peg stamps to your local Paint-Your-Own-Pottery-Studio (PYOP) studio, where you can choose your bisqueware, decorate it with their underglazes and they will take care of the entire firing process for you!

2. Choose the Stamps

Use our Bitty Stamps™ for small areas that are hard to reach or that have sharper curves. Larger stamps are best for flat surfaces and smoother curves.

3. Prepare the Stamps

If the outer edge of a stamp has a overhanging lip, remove it using a pair of small scissors. Removing this lip will prevent the stamp from leaving a circular pattern when stamping. To remove any oily residue that might prevent the underglaze from adhering to new stamps, clean the end of the stamp with a cleaning solution or very gently wipe the rubber across a section of clean ceramic bisque.

4. Adjust Underglaze

Place a small piece of foam in an underglaze cup, pour in 1 teaspoon (4.93 mL) of glaze, and smooth it out with a mixing paddle until absorbed. Gently press the stamp onto a piece of foam and stamp onto a piece of paper. If the image is not clear, add more underglaze. If the image is too wet, use another piece of foam to absorb the excess. While stamping, occasionally use a fine mist sprayer to gently remoisten the underglaze in the cup to make the image clearer.

5. Stamp the Bisque

Using a ruler, templates, or free-hand, draw with a pencil where you want to stamp. There is no need to erase the pencil marks before glazing because they will fire off the bisqueware in the kiln. Use the StampRight™ placement line on the end of the peg stamp to determine the position of the image. Sometimes you will need to rock and/or roll the stamp to get the best impression. This takes a little practice, but once you learn the technique, you will be amazed at how fast and easy it is.

6. Clean Between Colors

Thoroughly clean your stamps between underglaze colors with a microfiber cloth or Rub It Scrub It and Ultra Clean.

7. What About Mistakes?

Mistakes do occur and they can be fixed. If the underglaze is still wet, simply wipe the mistake away with a cotton swab or clean sponge. If the underglaze has partially dried, you may scratch if off with a stylus or cleanup tool. Use a toothpick for small mistakes.

8. Apply Clear Glaze and Fire

After stamping your bisqueware with underglaze, dip or brush your masterpiece with a clear glaze and fire, or let your favorite PYOP studio do that for you!

Component Stamping on Fabrics

There is a whole new world of possibilities just waiting for you with fabric stamping! Rubber Stamp Tapestry’s Jumbo Peg Stamps work well on fabrics with outstanding results! Using the same component stamping process you do with our paper stamps, from quilts to clothing, it’s now easy to create functional items that will be cherished for generations.

1. Choose Your Inks

Use either ink, markers or paint designed for fabric or textiles and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. VersaCraft™ Ink, Fabrico™ Markers, Tulip® Fabric Marker®, Sharpie® Markers and  Golden® acrylic paint, work great. Screen printing and other fabric inks are also a great choice.

2. Choose Your Fabric

Stamp on 100% cotton, linen, bamboo or natural fabric. Silk may bleed, so practice first.

To remove sizing, prewash your fabric in hot water using water and detergent (free of perfume, dye and softener). Iron while damp for a smooth working surface.

3. Reinforce Your Work

Place fabric on a flat surface such as smooth glass or cardboard. Place protective material between your artwork and the flat surface.If you are stamping on clothing place the glass or cardboard between the layers to prevent ink/paint from through and onto another part of the garment.

4. Adjust Ink Consistency

Apply ink/paint evenly onto a piece of foam or foam brush. If the ink/paint is too thick, spritz it lightly with water. Before stamping on fabric, check the image by stamping on paper and a scrap piece of fabric. Continue until you are pleased with the results.

5. Stamp the Fabric

Using even pressure, lightly press the stamp onto the foam to coat the stamp, gently rub off any extra ink onto the foam. Press stamp onto the fabric and wait a second for the fabric to absorb it. If your ink/paint begins to dry on the foam, spritz it with a fine mist of water and test again before stamping.

6. Clean Between Colors

Thoroughly clean the stamp between colors. The Lawn Fawn Stamp Shammy is perfect for cleaning your stamps. Just be sure to clean the shammy well so the paint does not dry on it. Use water for cleaning between and Ultra Clean stamp cleaner for a final cleaning.

7. Save Your Ink For Later

If you must leave your project for a while, don’t forget to save your ink/paint for later. Simply place your foam pieces in an airtight container or bag. When you’re able to get back to your project just spritz the ink/paint with water and begin again.

8. Let It Dry

Following the ink/paint manufacturer’s instructions, let your work dry completely. If the manufacturer recommends heat-setting your work, you’ll want to make sure that the ink/paint is completely dry so you don’t spread wet ink/paint with the iron.

9. Heat-Set Your Work

After your work has dried completely, heat-set the images with a dry iron or by drying on high for several minutes. Check the ink/paint manufacturer’s instructions for heat-setting temperature and duration. Note that some inks/paints do not require heat-setting.

10. Let Your Work Rest

Wait at least 72 hours before washing your work. Some manufacturers suggest waiting four days. Follow your ink/paint manufacturer’s recommendations for best results.

Component Stamping on Polymer Clay

Our peg stamps are little and highly detailed and lend themselves well to polymer clay and the mold making process. All stamps from our entire line of peg stamps and peg stamp sets can be used on polymer clay, precious metal clay (pmc), air dry clay, and art silver clay. So whether it’s ornaments, home decor, or jewelry you’re working on, you are sure to find Rubber Stamp Tapestry peg stamps a great addition for your project.

1. Choose Your Polymer Clay

Polymer clay is soft until baked. Slight differences between brands can affect conditioning, malleability, durability, and longevity after baking, as well as impression permanence (when dry stamping into clay). Experiment to see which works best for you.

2. Choose Your Technique

There are a myriad of stamping techniques from which to choose. We will look at three simple techniques and each will require different supplies.

  • Stamping on unbaked clay.
  • Dry stamping (without ink) on unbaked clay.
  • Stamping on baked clay.

3. Choose Your Ink

If you use ink, we recommend using a solvent ink like Staz-On™. Solvent inks are formulated for nonporous surfaces and are sure to give good results. You can also use acrylic paint on polymer clay for stamping as well as coloring.

4. Condition the Clay

Polymer clay must be conditioned before use to make it malleable and thoroughly incorporate the plasticizers. You’ll want to condition the clay until it is workable. Depending on the brand, this may mean simply working it with your hands, using a pasta machine, or even a food processor. Sculpey™ takes less time to condition. Warm clay will be easier to condition and the best way to warm it is with body heat, anything hotter and the clay may begin to cure. Never heat clay in a microwave as it will cause the clay to harden.

5. Stamp

Once your clay is workable, you can roll it into the thickness that you desire. The thickness will affect bake time as well as the durability of the piece after it’s baked. If your piece is too thick it will require a longer bake time and if it’s too thin it may be brittle and break after baking. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for more information.

  • Dry Stamping on Unbaked Clay – spritz clay with water, which will act as a release agent. Gently press the stamp into the clay with steady pressure, like stamping on paper. If you press too deeply, you’ll create a moon around the image.
  • Ink Stamping on Unbaked Clay – use a solvent ink like Staz-on™ to stamp directly onto unbaked clay.
  • Stamping on Baked Clay – stamp baked clay just like you would paper, but use either ink or acrylic paint. Follow the ink and/or clay manufacturer’s instructions regarding possible heat setting.

6. Clean Stamps

When dry stamping, remove any clay in the crevices of the stamp with a small ball of clay, dabbing the stamp lightly to adhere stuck clay. Then, thoroughly clean the stamp with a stamp cleaner. If using ink, you’ll want to clean between ink colors and after the final stamping. Solvent inks may color the rubber and cleaning early will minimize this.

The Rub-it Scrub-It by Ranger, upholstery fabric, denim, or any coarse fabric combined with the cleaning solution makes a great stamp cleaner. Use a toothbrush to clean recessed areas of the stamp. To protect your stamps, clean them before storing.

7. Bake

After stamping you will need to bake the polymer clay. Refer to the clay manufacturer’s instructions for bake times. A rule of thumb is for every ¼” (6 mm) of clay thickness, bake 30 minutes at 275F (135C). Instead of your home oven, we recommended a toaster oven designated only for the purpose of baking polymer clay. To prevent overbaking, you will need an internal thermometer if your toaster is not equipped with one.

8. Finishing & Fixing Goofs

If you make a mistake stamping into polymer clay, there are several options. If you stamp without ink into unbaked clay, smooth the impression with your fingers. If this doesn’t work, reform the clay and start over.

If you’re using ink on unbaked clay, your only real option is to re-form the clay. The ink will color the clay a bit but won’t harm it.

If your mistake happens while using baked clay, either rub off the ink or paint quickly or do what we do when component – stamping on paper; use another stamp to cover it up.

Cleaning Your Peg Stamps

Never soak wood mounted stamps in water, it will ruin them. Avoid household cleaners. There are a variety of commercial stamp cleaners available, but we recommend Stewart Superior Ultra Clean. In addition to being an excellent cleaner, it moisturizes your stamps making them happy and healthy. We recommend using a quality stamp cleaner and a microfiber cloth, stamp cleaning cloth, or cleaning pad. Spray a bit of cleaner on the cloth or pad, rotate the stamp until all the ink is gone and then rotate the stamp on a clean section of the cloth to dry it.

Clean While Stamping – Between Ink Colors

  • Pigment Inks – If you’re using pigment inks (VersaColor™, VersaFine™ Clair, Tim Holtz Distress® Oxide®, etc) it’s a good idea to clean your stamps between ink colors to keep them from cross contaminating your inks. Just rotate them on a wet cleaning pad with plain water, or stamp several times on a scrap piece of paper.
  • Dye Inks – If you’re using dye inks (Memento™, Archival™, Tim Holtz Distress®, etc) you can actually mix the inks right on your stamp, if you like. To avoid contaminating your lighter ink pads, start with the lightest color and move to the darker ink. If you don’t want to mix colors, then clean between inks as described above.

A Final Cleaning

When you’re done with your project and before storing your stamps, you’ll want to make sure to give them a final cleaning. We recommend using a quality stamp cleaner and a microfiber cloth, stamp cleaning cloth, or cleaning pad. Spray a bit of cleaner on the cloth or pad, rotate the stamp until all the ink is gone and then rotate the stamp on a clean section of the cloth to dry it. That’s all it takes to keep your stamps at optimal performance.

Storing Your Peg Stamps

To keep your rubber stamps healthy for many years to come, it is best to store them out of direct sunlight and if you store them vertically make sure the rubber ends are placed flat to protect the beautiful shape of the rubber.

The Peg Stamp Nook by Stamp-n-Storage

We’ve teamed up with Stamp-n-Storage to bring you a fabulous craft room peg stamp storage solution! Stamp-n-Storage handles the selling of this storage unit, so to purchase, you may do so here: Stamp-n-Storage Peg Stamp Nook.

The Peg Stamp Nook will perfectly fit inside of the square IKEA® shelving openings like a hand in a glove! It has 5 shelves. Shelf by shelf storage capacity (as shown in the photos) is:

  •     10 Jumbo Peg Stamps/shelf
  •     12 Big Peg Stamps/shelf
  •     20 Mini Peg Stamps/shelf
  •     44 Tiny Peg Stamps/shelf
  •     81 Bitty Peg Stamps/shelf

It has been a pleasure to work with Brett and his team at Stamp-n-Storage. Like us, they are a USA based, family-owned and operated business and they’ve been making “high-quality, space efficient, desktop craft storage and organization solutions” since 2009.

More Peg Stamp Storage Solutions

Nearly any container can be used to store your peg stamps, you just need something at least 4-inches deep if you want to use a lid with your storage solution. Below we give you some additional peg stamp-storage ideas.

The Kraft Memory Box by Recollections – This is a great option if you have a lot of stamps and they stay put. It is really heavy when completely full.

Really Useful Box -This is a favorite storage solution because the box is super sturdy, has a lid that is locked into place with the handles, it’s not too heavy when filled, and it stacks. These boxes come in a variety of sizes, but this is the only size that is the correct depth. As the box sizes go up or down the depth also changes. They can be purchased online directly from the UK manufacturer. I purchased this one at Target and I saw that Walmart does have a knock-off version but it lacks the quality of the original brand. 

Everything Mary Deluxe Store and Tote – This is a great option for stamping on the go. This idea came to us from a customer and she said that she has 2 totes filled with peg stamps. They are available directly from the manufacturer, as well through Amazon, but she picked hers up at Walmart.

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